Act Art
Revisiting Guerlain L’Art et la Matiere: Angelique Noire, Cuir Beluga, Rose Barbare
Guerlain’s L’Art et la Matiere introduced a trio of fragrances in 2005 featuring three perfumers who were invited to design their own fragrances for Guerlain. These perfumes were created to coincide with the grand opening of the Guerlain house in Champs Elysees. According to the fragrance house, “This act of true creation is a hymn to precious and rare raw materials, and differs by its originality.”
Angelique Noire was created by Daniela Andrier. The fragrance notes are composed of angelica seeds, pink berries, pear, jasmine, sambac, caraway, vanilla, angelica roots and cedar. The opening is slightly bittersweet with notable green undertones, perhaps, it’s the angelica accords in action. The scent unfolds into something sweet; nuances of fruits and vanilla arises, the green notes remain but sit quietly in the background. Angelique Noire maintains a subtle presence in the dry down. Overall, this fragrance is well-crafted and not to mention, expertly blended.
Rose Barbare, as the name implies, centers on one of Guerlain’s favorite ingredients, the rose. The nose behind this fragrance is Francis Kurkdjian. This perfume is described as “an opposition to stereotypes, in a way that would be unexpected, untamable and contemporary… vibrant, floral heady”; hence, the name Rose Barbare which literally translates to Bar barian Rose. This fragrance features the notes of aldehydes, rose essence, rose absolu, fenugreek, peach honey, patchouli and notes of undergrowth. The fragrance description doesn’t really sit well with the impressive olfactory statement at first whiff. The rose component is airy and smoky; it is pronounced but not heady or obtrusive. This fragrance is just right in all aspects. If you shun rose-based fragrances in the past, you will be surprised how Guerlain creatively meld roses with the other accords to produce a versatile fragrance.
Cuir Beluga was designed by Olivier Polge and the main element in this fragrance is leather, another Guerlain favorite raw material. With this fragrance, Guerlain wants to evoke luxury and femininity without the animalistic notes of leather. Cuir Beluga has a vintage appeal; amber, vanilla and aldehydes are most prominent. The leather factor is quite soft and the base is somehow reminiscent of Shalimar’s.
Guerlain also launched new fragrances in the L’art et la Matiere collection. The more recent additions to the series are: Cruel Gardenia, Iris Ganache, Bois d’Armenie.
Learn more about Guerlain’s exclusive fragrances at discount perfume online store, scentiments.com.
ACT ART 8 – CENSORED
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Cyrano De Bergerac (translation by Anthony Burgess) [VHS] $29.98 … |
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